Lofoten, 19 – 26 June, Vesterålen 2nd – 6th July 2025
Lofoten is a chain of islands with rocky mountains, strong tidal streams and an even stronger fishing heritage. Vesterålen continues this chain of islands with more rocky mountains and huge low-lying mires towards the Norwegian mainland.
We made a visit to Lofoten from Å to Skrova, then after some time on the mainland (See North Norway), came back to Vesterålen.
We crossed to Lofoten from Bodo to Moskenes and headed for a campsite near a beach. Many motorhome users seem to prefer roadside overnighting. Why this should be so when there are campsites like this is not clear to us.
Fredvang camping
Next day to Å at the southern end of Kong Olav’s vei (road) for a short walk, views of a seabird colony and some serious footpath erosion.
Intrigued by the mountains and the tautologous name, we made an afternoon of Tindtind.
From our campsite we had the most amazing view of Volandtinden, so, next morning…
We moved north to Leknes and from Hagskaret climbed Justadtinden on the east side of Vest Vagøy (island).
We had pleasant detours round the north side of Lofoten and took a detour South to see Henningsvær. This spectacular village is a gem being spoiled by tourist traffic, including us. We would willingly have stopped short and walked or even taken a shuttle bus, had there been the opportunity and had we known.
The rock climbing and rock climbers are world class. Several climbers appeared like flies on the walls. I couldn’t imagine how they did it.
Then to Skrova, a must-visit to our friend Mònica and the Heimbrygge she runs with partner Mario. The sun always shines for us on Skrova.
From Skrova we took the ferry to Skutvik back on the mainland and had some days there (see Norway NW) before crossing back to the island chain which includes Lofoten. This Northern section is called Vesterålen.
We headed for the town of Harstad then out to the end of the hill road at Elgsnes. At the high point of the road a car park offered an informal off-road overnight spot and an amazing evening walk to the peaks of Keipen, above great cliffs.
Next morning, we happened to pass and stop at Kasfjordvatn (lake) to engage in our other main game, birdwatching. There were several interesting ducks here. We realised the grebes we were watching were red necked grebe, a female and juvenile, and she chased off a male Slavonian grebe. A white tailed eagle watched from a telegraph pole.
Across a ferry to another part of the same island, Hinnøy, we headed for Oppmyre and the end of the road at Nyksund. Next day we walked one of Dronning Sonia’s routes, a real workout round the hills at the end of the peninsula. She was a tough bird in her time!
Our last day on this awesome archipelago allowed us to travel alongside Lysfjord looking at the birds on the water and overhead. The fjord had dozens – hundreds – of puffins, adult and juvenile. We have never seen puffin creches before; in Britain they go out to sea. Unfortunately my camera is not up to the job of a good picture of them, but a family of red throated divers was near enough.
So to Sortland, ‘the Blue City’, bridge, ferry and hill road back over to Harstad and the ferry back east to Rolla (island). This is attached by road to the mainland, so the story resumes on the page Norway Islands – Rolla, Andorya, Senja.
Exploring Norway 